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There is a bit of a theme to buildings in Beijing. I may be wrong, but I believe the Emperor had a sack of 20 tiles inscribed with adjectives including "heavenly, eternal, ever-lasting, glorious, wonderful, benevolent, and harmonious." He then reached into the sack (or perhaps the eunuchs did it), drew 3 (x,y,z) and the next building had its name: "The x, y, z Hall". After 1949, the critical word "people" was added to the mix. I'd venture a guess to say that there were probably at least 10 tiles with "people" in the sack.
So yes, for those of you who didn't know, I decided to make a weekend journey to Beijing. It was a bit spur of the moment, but I had the chance for two good interviews and a generous Microsoft Beijing employee even offered to be my tour guide for the weekend. I'm sitting in my hostel after an epic day that included Tienanmen Square, the Forbidden City, Tsinghua University and the Summer Palace. We capped the night off with a delicious dinner of Peking duck... for those of you who have seen one of my favorite movies "A Christmas Story", you will laugh to know that the duck was indeed smiling at us.
Tomorrow I head to the Great Wall and then hopefully the Lama Temple. Monday, I'm meeting with the head of Microsoft's Research Center in Beijing (one of only five worldwide) and also with a partner from a top Chinese law firm to get the details on how the Chinese regulatory environment is affecting offshoring.
On a side note, and after being pestered by my mother as to why I have been slow to update my blog, I must inform you that this is a transmission from behind the "Great Firewall of China." In addition to blocking facebook (tragic), twitter (less tragic), and Youtube (meh), they block Blogger and Picasa. I have tons of pictures to show everyone but between slow internet and a dangerous ballet of proxy servers, I haven't been able to upload them. Rest assured that when I get to HK (or at worst, Seattle), I will barrage you with more cheesy pictures than you could ever want.
Before I go to bed, I have to say that I am enormously impressed by China. No, this is not just to appease the censors after I mentioned the firewall. This country has accomplished an amazing feat by developing so quickly. You can fault the pollution (which is terrible), but the infrastructure here often puts the U.S. to shame. I was a big believer in Fareed Zakaria's theory on the "rise of the rest" even before I visited India and China. Seeing these places first hand has made me realize that this is very likely to be their century. I don't think America will fade into irrelevance any time soon, but we need to realize that these countries are a BIG deal. The more we understand and respect them, the better off we will be.
Friday, July 31, 2009
Sunday, July 26, 2009
The Land of Jackhammers
One of the easiest ways to distinguish cities is by the ambient noise. Cairo it was taxi horns, Mumbai and Delhi were rickshaw horns (higher pitch), Singapore was the continuous hum of air conditioners and Shanghai it is jackhammers. They are constantly jackhammering away in this city... 6 new metro lines, dozens of new high rises, and countless renovations in order to prepare the city for "Expo 2010". In case you are as ignorant as I am, the World Expo is a chance for countries of the world to come showcase their latest and greatest accomplishments. More info can be found here http://en.expo2010.cn/ I don't have solid proof of this, but I've been told that Shanghai is spending more on preparations for the Expo than Beijing did for the Olympics. Considering that altering regional weather patterns is relatively pricey, it should give you an idea of how big of a deal this is to China.
Currently, I'm staying with a computer programmer from the U.S. who graduated from Berkeley in 2008. My first weekend in Shanghai was thoroughly expat-heavy. We went to a party hosted by a German expat, where I met Swedes and Norwegians who had come for the eclipse, and then we went to a bar in an old Cold War bomb shelter. They even played beer pong... it could have been any frat house in America, but in this case the damp odor was a natural phenomenon, not caused by the accumulation of layers of Pabst Blue Ribbon.
While my cultural immersion was lacking at first, I have learned a few important things about China before my research even officially begins. First, I met so many people who were American/British and had come to China because this is where companies were hiring. They were willing to take pay cuts because the cost of living is still much lower than Western cities, and most of them love it. This is a trend that I think is going to accelerate in the coming years. Educated Westerners could struggle to find jobs in their home country, or they could capitalize on their youth and come to the "wild west" of capitalism. A member of the Circumnavigators Club chapter in Singapore told me that China is considered implementing an urban development scheme in which cities are in clusters of 4-6 separate cities, linked by high-speed trains (to minimize the need for cars). They would utilize high-rise apartments (no sprawling California suburbia here) and each cluster would house between 30-60 million people. Think about that... more people in one cluster than in Spain. The economies of scale are mind-blowing. Advertising, product testing, professional services... all would be vastly more efficient because so many people are so close together. It's hard not to be fascinated by the prospect. When I asked if Chinese people are going to learn English or if Westerners would learn Chinese, he responded that you learn the language of your buyer. Export-led growth made China focus on English, but if we want to reap the potential of the Chinese domestic market, we better start learning Chinese. I for one have learned roughly 3 phrases. Might have to work a bit more before I can start brokering deals.
Tomorrow I have a meeting with the head of Microsoft China. After a great meeting with the head of Microsoft India (thanks Lisa for setting these up if you're reading), I am excited for this interview. After that, I am going to the weekly meeting of CouchSurfers in Shanghai and then catching up on sleep. This sounds terrible, but my motivation for sightseeing has diminished substantially since I began this trip. After a while, I think you learn that traveling is more about the people than it is about the sights. Maybe if I was staying in hotels my mentality would be different, but I have been fortunate to be able to avoid hotels (CouchSurfing has been one of the greatest tools of this whole trip). Also, being in Shanghai for so long, I feel like I'm getting a chance to adjust to a place a bit, instead of moving on every 4 days as in India. It's refreshing and it has taught me that my dream of living/working abroad is even more feasible than I first believed.
As I've mentioned before, this trip has taught me the importance of recognizing your own strengths and weaknesses (whether you're an individual, company or country). I might be terrible at haggling and put too much of a premium on convenience, but I have been impressed with my own ability to adapt. It's hard to change surroundings so often and I think I've been able to make the most of this breakneck pace.
Before I leave... a few pictures.
The President of the Singapore Chapter of the Circumnavigators Club, Mr. ANG Thiam-Huat and myself
Singapore's new casinos
Singapore skyline from the 72 floor
Currently, I'm staying with a computer programmer from the U.S. who graduated from Berkeley in 2008. My first weekend in Shanghai was thoroughly expat-heavy. We went to a party hosted by a German expat, where I met Swedes and Norwegians who had come for the eclipse, and then we went to a bar in an old Cold War bomb shelter. They even played beer pong... it could have been any frat house in America, but in this case the damp odor was a natural phenomenon, not caused by the accumulation of layers of Pabst Blue Ribbon.
While my cultural immersion was lacking at first, I have learned a few important things about China before my research even officially begins. First, I met so many people who were American/British and had come to China because this is where companies were hiring. They were willing to take pay cuts because the cost of living is still much lower than Western cities, and most of them love it. This is a trend that I think is going to accelerate in the coming years. Educated Westerners could struggle to find jobs in their home country, or they could capitalize on their youth and come to the "wild west" of capitalism. A member of the Circumnavigators Club chapter in Singapore told me that China is considered implementing an urban development scheme in which cities are in clusters of 4-6 separate cities, linked by high-speed trains (to minimize the need for cars). They would utilize high-rise apartments (no sprawling California suburbia here) and each cluster would house between 30-60 million people. Think about that... more people in one cluster than in Spain. The economies of scale are mind-blowing. Advertising, product testing, professional services... all would be vastly more efficient because so many people are so close together. It's hard not to be fascinated by the prospect. When I asked if Chinese people are going to learn English or if Westerners would learn Chinese, he responded that you learn the language of your buyer. Export-led growth made China focus on English, but if we want to reap the potential of the Chinese domestic market, we better start learning Chinese. I for one have learned roughly 3 phrases. Might have to work a bit more before I can start brokering deals.
Tomorrow I have a meeting with the head of Microsoft China. After a great meeting with the head of Microsoft India (thanks Lisa for setting these up if you're reading), I am excited for this interview. After that, I am going to the weekly meeting of CouchSurfers in Shanghai and then catching up on sleep. This sounds terrible, but my motivation for sightseeing has diminished substantially since I began this trip. After a while, I think you learn that traveling is more about the people than it is about the sights. Maybe if I was staying in hotels my mentality would be different, but I have been fortunate to be able to avoid hotels (CouchSurfing has been one of the greatest tools of this whole trip). Also, being in Shanghai for so long, I feel like I'm getting a chance to adjust to a place a bit, instead of moving on every 4 days as in India. It's refreshing and it has taught me that my dream of living/working abroad is even more feasible than I first believed.
As I've mentioned before, this trip has taught me the importance of recognizing your own strengths and weaknesses (whether you're an individual, company or country). I might be terrible at haggling and put too much of a premium on convenience, but I have been impressed with my own ability to adapt. It's hard to change surroundings so often and I think I've been able to make the most of this breakneck pace.
Before I leave... a few pictures.
The President of the Singapore Chapter of the Circumnavigators Club, Mr. ANG Thiam-Huat and myself
Singapore's new casinos
Singapore skyline from the 72 floor
Tuesday, July 21, 2009
The Only Shopping Mall in with a Seat at the U.N.
Okay, okay... there's a lot more to Singapore than shopping but I love that label. It's more cheery than frequently-cited "Disneyland with the Death Penalty."
A quick confession. I could not have time my trip to Singapore more poorly! India and China, which bookend the Asia leg of my trip, are about to witness the longest solar eclipse in the 21st century. Unfortunately, I did not consult a lunar calendar when planning my itinerary and I am stuck with a remarkably common partial solar eclipse. I hardly feel it is even worth waking up early and making a pin-hole box to view the eclipse (remember those things from elementary school??). Oh well, the pollution in India and China would probably dampen the effect anyway. At least that's what I am telling myself.
Singapore has been a huge change of pace from India. Over the weekend I met with couchsurfers for a party of travelers (covered every continent but Antarctica) and then with a friend of some of my high school friends. We went to a restaurant called Black Angus, which I am told is of not relation to the American chain. It was a steakhouse though, and I did have the first steak of my entire trip. The meal was unbelievable... USDA prime cut never tasted so good. Trying to ignore the fact that my carbon footprint probably doubled by eating steak flown in from America, I savored that meal. We then went to Clarke Quay, a popular hub of restaurants, bars and clubs which is just down from where the first British explorer landed on the Singapore river. After 4 weeks of feeling awkwardly wealthy, Singapore has brought me crashing back to reality. A single drink cost as much as I spent in two days in Bangalore. Fortunately, the combination of 7-11 and liberal open container laws (I was surprised too) meant that we could avoid incurring the astronomical drink charges.
Sunday, I went to Sentosa, an island full of man-made beaches, world-class golf courses, tourist traps and even it's own mascot "Oscar... the random tropical fish." Spent the day lounging some of my newly-made friends on the beach. This was not your typical SE Asian beach. While I'm told that Bali and Phuket are nice... I'm not sure they can compete with this view.
Yes, there are ships EVERYWHERE just off the coast. The water is still safe to swim in, but the exotic atmosphere is a bit tainted.
Today I had a meeting with the Singapore Economic Development Board. What a tight ship they run! From the 28th floor of Raffles Tower, I could look out on huge number of cranes and high-rises being erected around the city. They even had a telescope, presumably so investors could track their project's progress from air-conditioned comfort. I'm not sure this is true, but someone told me that the EDB is so intense that they once took an oil company up in a helicopter, pointed at a piece of sea and said "You can build your refinery there." The executives were confused, only to return a year later and find an island in that space. Even if it is not true, I could not have been more impressed with the EDB. One of the trends I've realized in my travels is that successful governments leverage their strengths, but more importantly, acknowledge their weaknesses. The EDB conceded that Singapore had a lack of resources and an ageing population, but emphasized their openness to foreign knowledge workers and their ability to innovate through challenges. Innovation was a big theme for them, something that I found particularly interesting. They were well-aware of the pressure globalization puts on all countries to climb the value-chain and are actively taking steps to encourage an innovative and creative hub in Singapore. They are even building housing developments around certain industrial cluster areas to increase the exchange of ideas. The argument goes that you're more likely to start a business with someone you see in the elevator everyday than someone who is a complete stranger.
Off to bed for me...
Day 51/82
Distance from NY JFK: Same as before
Current mood: Contented
Current music: Cafe Del Mar Pandora Station (thank goodness for proxy servers so I can still get US websites and avoid censorship)
Only here moment: On Saturday night I had my temperature taken at 3 different night clubs. It was certainly unique to have a 300 pound Samoan man holding a little machine up to my neck. They take swine flu, VERY SERIOUSLY here. Fingers crossed I don't develop a fever, because not only will I not get into China, my Singaporean social life will be shot.
A quick confession. I could not have time my trip to Singapore more poorly! India and China, which bookend the Asia leg of my trip, are about to witness the longest solar eclipse in the 21st century. Unfortunately, I did not consult a lunar calendar when planning my itinerary and I am stuck with a remarkably common partial solar eclipse. I hardly feel it is even worth waking up early and making a pin-hole box to view the eclipse (remember those things from elementary school??). Oh well, the pollution in India and China would probably dampen the effect anyway. At least that's what I am telling myself.
Singapore has been a huge change of pace from India. Over the weekend I met with couchsurfers for a party of travelers (covered every continent but Antarctica) and then with a friend of some of my high school friends. We went to a restaurant called Black Angus, which I am told is of not relation to the American chain. It was a steakhouse though, and I did have the first steak of my entire trip. The meal was unbelievable... USDA prime cut never tasted so good. Trying to ignore the fact that my carbon footprint probably doubled by eating steak flown in from America, I savored that meal. We then went to Clarke Quay, a popular hub of restaurants, bars and clubs which is just down from where the first British explorer landed on the Singapore river. After 4 weeks of feeling awkwardly wealthy, Singapore has brought me crashing back to reality. A single drink cost as much as I spent in two days in Bangalore. Fortunately, the combination of 7-11 and liberal open container laws (I was surprised too) meant that we could avoid incurring the astronomical drink charges.
Sunday, I went to Sentosa, an island full of man-made beaches, world-class golf courses, tourist traps and even it's own mascot "Oscar... the random tropical fish." Spent the day lounging some of my newly-made friends on the beach. This was not your typical SE Asian beach. While I'm told that Bali and Phuket are nice... I'm not sure they can compete with this view.
Yes, there are ships EVERYWHERE just off the coast. The water is still safe to swim in, but the exotic atmosphere is a bit tainted.
Today I had a meeting with the Singapore Economic Development Board. What a tight ship they run! From the 28th floor of Raffles Tower, I could look out on huge number of cranes and high-rises being erected around the city. They even had a telescope, presumably so investors could track their project's progress from air-conditioned comfort. I'm not sure this is true, but someone told me that the EDB is so intense that they once took an oil company up in a helicopter, pointed at a piece of sea and said "You can build your refinery there." The executives were confused, only to return a year later and find an island in that space. Even if it is not true, I could not have been more impressed with the EDB. One of the trends I've realized in my travels is that successful governments leverage their strengths, but more importantly, acknowledge their weaknesses. The EDB conceded that Singapore had a lack of resources and an ageing population, but emphasized their openness to foreign knowledge workers and their ability to innovate through challenges. Innovation was a big theme for them, something that I found particularly interesting. They were well-aware of the pressure globalization puts on all countries to climb the value-chain and are actively taking steps to encourage an innovative and creative hub in Singapore. They are even building housing developments around certain industrial cluster areas to increase the exchange of ideas. The argument goes that you're more likely to start a business with someone you see in the elevator everyday than someone who is a complete stranger.
Off to bed for me...
Day 51/82
Distance from NY JFK: Same as before
Current mood: Contented
Current music: Cafe Del Mar Pandora Station (thank goodness for proxy servers so I can still get US websites and avoid censorship)
Only here moment: On Saturday night I had my temperature taken at 3 different night clubs. It was certainly unique to have a 300 pound Samoan man holding a little machine up to my neck. They take swine flu, VERY SERIOUSLY here. Fingers crossed I don't develop a fever, because not only will I not get into China, my Singaporean social life will be shot.
Thursday, July 16, 2009
India recap and the next adventure
Landed in Singapore this morning after 22 days in India. What a contrast! When exiting my taxi from the airport, the driver kindly informed me that I had given him too much money. I had a stunned look on my face. For the past month it's been a constant battle with drivers/shopkeepers to minimize how badly I was getting ripped off. The concept of a fixed price has become alien to me. But there are some things I miss about India already. First, I miss that there aren't really any rules. You cross the street when you want/dare, you get on the bus whether or not it stops, you sit on the roof if the cabin is full (OK I didn't do this, but locals do). Basically anything goes.
Enter Singapore, where there are more signs saying what is prohibited (with a corresponding fine) than there are English tutor advertisements in Mumbai. I haven't dared cross the street without a signal yet... I'm not sure what the punishment is but it could be anything from 500 dollars to loss of feet. Despite these restrictions, it is exceedingly comfortable here. I'm staying in the residence of my girlfriend Whitney's family friends, the Skillicorns. After a week in Bangalore without reliable power, internet, transport, laundry, it is quite nice. They even have a pool! Thus, I have done two things today that I haven't done since leaving Europe: 1) Drink a beverage with ice 2) Go swimming! I'll never take ice for granted again, that's for sure.
But for all of the challenges in India, it was certainly one of the most exhilarating, eye-opening and influential experiences of my life. I was so fortunate to benefit from the kindness of local hosts in almost every city I visited. In Bangalore, I couchsurfed and my host, Leroy, took me to his weekly soccer match on Sunday. For three hours I played soccer in a vacant lot they had cleared of garbage with men/boys ranging from 10-55 years in age. My lack of cardio activity was on full display! It was probably one of the highlights of my trip though. In between games we'd walk down to the local shops and get a 6 rupee ( 12ish cents) chai tea. After the match, one of the kind local woman brought us all big glasses of buttermilk, which everyone promptly gulped down. I was hesitant at first, traditionally used to Gatorade, but eventually I drank mine down too. We then went back to Leroy's apartment and I had probably the best shower of the trip, which was amazing because it was only with a bucket of warm water. Despite the humble nature of afternoon, I felt like a local and was kindly embraced by the community. One of the local boys even cornered me to question me about dating in America because he had a girlfriend and wanted to travel after finishing high school.
From a research perspective, India was even more fascinating than I had anticipated. I was lucky to see the offshoring phenomenon from just about every perspective: the local start up, the huge multinational, the traditional call center, the high-end financial office (made me wonder why they even hire Princeton grads!). I talked with CEOs and new recruits, economists and NGOs, and just about everyone in between. I got my first motorcycle ride from an American Express call center employee who bragged about the time he talked to Nicole Kidman. One highlight was sitting in the Microsoft office in Bangalore that Tom Friedman refers to in "The World is Flat" when he is on a golf course and says to "aim at Microsoft and IBM." Many of these companies have certainly set their sights this high, and some like Infosys and Wipro have clearly succeeded in becoming major forces in the industry.
While I heard about all the great things that offshoring has done for India, I also realized that it can't be the sole force driving Indian development and lifting hundreds of millions of people out of poverty. The world may be flat for some segments of the Indian population, but until their education system addresses the huge urban/rural achievement discrepancy poverty will remain pervasive. One of my interviewees said, "India is a rich country with a whole lot of poor people." I'm not sure I completely agree with that assessment but it emphasizes the inequality that characterizes modern India. The government's favorite phrase is now "inclusive growth", but that's much easier said than done. One of my interviewees, an economist, scoffed at the trickle-down argument as a solution in itself. I think of it like this... there is the wealth pyramid with a few extremely rich at the top, a growing middle class (but still very small), and then a vast base of poor (the aptly-named "bottom of the pyramid"). The gains of offshoring are like water being poured on the top of the pyramid. But here is the catch; the gains tend to evaporate before they get to the bottom of the pyramid. The burgeoning middle class is hugely significant, but we can't hold up that momentous achievement without simultaneously acknowledging the enormous distance that is yet to be covered.
OK, enough talk about that for the moment. Most of you probably read this to hear about stories of me eating ridiculous things and not ranting about shortcomings in development policy. To satisfy those readers, I'll share one thing I tasted yesterday that I will certainly never try again. Sheep's brain. Yes, brain. What does it taste like? I honestly couldn't tell you, I was so repulsed by the concept of eating brain. The texture was the worst part, kind of rubbery *shudder*. It's not a true adventure unless you eat some weird stuff right? On the bright side, I've learned how to properly eat with my hands so I can impress the staff in Indian restaurants in the U.S. (shhh... the trick is to use the thumb).
It's getting late and I got 30 minutes of sleep on the red-eye from Bangalore. Tomorrow the plan is to confirm a few meetings and then spend the day typing up notes from India.
Day 46/82
Distance from NY-JFK: 9530.67 miles. Can't get much further than that.
Current mood: nostalgic for India's craziness/ relieved by Singapore's predictability
Current music: My friend Ian's home-made mix for his music composition class at Princeton. It's part of a killer playlist he made me.
Only here moment: OK this actually happened in Bangalore, but I was so struck by it that I'll put it here. It's what I've termed "The Amazing Race to School" (accepting other title suggestions). I was up early on my last day in Bangalore and witnessed children of all ages making their way to school. That may not sound exciting, at least in the states this typically involves a lot of big yellow buses, latte-wielding minivan drivers and a few bicycles. In Bangalore, they used EVERY POSSIBLE FORM OF TRANSPORT to get their kids to school. Two little girls in their school uniforms road on the back of their father's scooter, five boys crammed into the back of an autorickshaw, kids sitting on the handlebars of other kid's bicycles, kids in the back of a moving van holding their book bags, even a few on horse-drawn wagons. It was one of the most inspiring scenes I've ever glimpsed. While I'm sure Bangalore is different from rural villages, I couldn't help but smile seeing the enormous value these families placed on educating their children. They may not have potable water or reliable electricity, but they sure as hell don't miss school. Rest of the world... watch out in 20 years.
Enter Singapore, where there are more signs saying what is prohibited (with a corresponding fine) than there are English tutor advertisements in Mumbai. I haven't dared cross the street without a signal yet... I'm not sure what the punishment is but it could be anything from 500 dollars to loss of feet. Despite these restrictions, it is exceedingly comfortable here. I'm staying in the residence of my girlfriend Whitney's family friends, the Skillicorns. After a week in Bangalore without reliable power, internet, transport, laundry, it is quite nice. They even have a pool! Thus, I have done two things today that I haven't done since leaving Europe: 1) Drink a beverage with ice 2) Go swimming! I'll never take ice for granted again, that's for sure.
But for all of the challenges in India, it was certainly one of the most exhilarating, eye-opening and influential experiences of my life. I was so fortunate to benefit from the kindness of local hosts in almost every city I visited. In Bangalore, I couchsurfed and my host, Leroy, took me to his weekly soccer match on Sunday. For three hours I played soccer in a vacant lot they had cleared of garbage with men/boys ranging from 10-55 years in age. My lack of cardio activity was on full display! It was probably one of the highlights of my trip though. In between games we'd walk down to the local shops and get a 6 rupee ( 12ish cents) chai tea. After the match, one of the kind local woman brought us all big glasses of buttermilk, which everyone promptly gulped down. I was hesitant at first, traditionally used to Gatorade, but eventually I drank mine down too. We then went back to Leroy's apartment and I had probably the best shower of the trip, which was amazing because it was only with a bucket of warm water. Despite the humble nature of afternoon, I felt like a local and was kindly embraced by the community. One of the local boys even cornered me to question me about dating in America because he had a girlfriend and wanted to travel after finishing high school.
From a research perspective, India was even more fascinating than I had anticipated. I was lucky to see the offshoring phenomenon from just about every perspective: the local start up, the huge multinational, the traditional call center, the high-end financial office (made me wonder why they even hire Princeton grads!). I talked with CEOs and new recruits, economists and NGOs, and just about everyone in between. I got my first motorcycle ride from an American Express call center employee who bragged about the time he talked to Nicole Kidman. One highlight was sitting in the Microsoft office in Bangalore that Tom Friedman refers to in "The World is Flat" when he is on a golf course and says to "aim at Microsoft and IBM." Many of these companies have certainly set their sights this high, and some like Infosys and Wipro have clearly succeeded in becoming major forces in the industry.
While I heard about all the great things that offshoring has done for India, I also realized that it can't be the sole force driving Indian development and lifting hundreds of millions of people out of poverty. The world may be flat for some segments of the Indian population, but until their education system addresses the huge urban/rural achievement discrepancy poverty will remain pervasive. One of my interviewees said, "India is a rich country with a whole lot of poor people." I'm not sure I completely agree with that assessment but it emphasizes the inequality that characterizes modern India. The government's favorite phrase is now "inclusive growth", but that's much easier said than done. One of my interviewees, an economist, scoffed at the trickle-down argument as a solution in itself. I think of it like this... there is the wealth pyramid with a few extremely rich at the top, a growing middle class (but still very small), and then a vast base of poor (the aptly-named "bottom of the pyramid"). The gains of offshoring are like water being poured on the top of the pyramid. But here is the catch; the gains tend to evaporate before they get to the bottom of the pyramid. The burgeoning middle class is hugely significant, but we can't hold up that momentous achievement without simultaneously acknowledging the enormous distance that is yet to be covered.
OK, enough talk about that for the moment. Most of you probably read this to hear about stories of me eating ridiculous things and not ranting about shortcomings in development policy. To satisfy those readers, I'll share one thing I tasted yesterday that I will certainly never try again. Sheep's brain. Yes, brain. What does it taste like? I honestly couldn't tell you, I was so repulsed by the concept of eating brain. The texture was the worst part, kind of rubbery *shudder*. It's not a true adventure unless you eat some weird stuff right? On the bright side, I've learned how to properly eat with my hands so I can impress the staff in Indian restaurants in the U.S. (shhh... the trick is to use the thumb).
It's getting late and I got 30 minutes of sleep on the red-eye from Bangalore. Tomorrow the plan is to confirm a few meetings and then spend the day typing up notes from India.
Day 46/82
Distance from NY-JFK: 9530.67 miles. Can't get much further than that.
Current mood: nostalgic for India's craziness/ relieved by Singapore's predictability
Current music: My friend Ian's home-made mix for his music composition class at Princeton. It's part of a killer playlist he made me.
Only here moment: OK this actually happened in Bangalore, but I was so struck by it that I'll put it here. It's what I've termed "The Amazing Race to School" (accepting other title suggestions). I was up early on my last day in Bangalore and witnessed children of all ages making their way to school. That may not sound exciting, at least in the states this typically involves a lot of big yellow buses, latte-wielding minivan drivers and a few bicycles. In Bangalore, they used EVERY POSSIBLE FORM OF TRANSPORT to get their kids to school. Two little girls in their school uniforms road on the back of their father's scooter, five boys crammed into the back of an autorickshaw, kids sitting on the handlebars of other kid's bicycles, kids in the back of a moving van holding their book bags, even a few on horse-drawn wagons. It was one of the most inspiring scenes I've ever glimpsed. While I'm sure Bangalore is different from rural villages, I couldn't help but smile seeing the enormous value these families placed on educating their children. They may not have potable water or reliable electricity, but they sure as hell don't miss school. Rest of the world... watch out in 20 years.
Saturday, July 11, 2009
"It's Better if you Think of it as a Continenet"
That was the advice a wise couchsurfer provided me with over dinner in Chennai. It seems ridiculous, but if you think of India like you think of Europe, then whole place makes much more sense. Another favorite saying given to me my Bharat, the son of the family I was staying with in Delhi, "When traveling in India, the water changes taste every 2km and the dialect changes every 4km." I can't personally vouch for either since I try to avoid the water like the plague (it may in fact contain the plague), and I am equally ignorant of Hindi, Tamil, Bengali, etc. But unlike China, which is fairly homogeneous (fairly being key in that phrase given the recent ethnic conflict), India changes night and day as you move throughout the country. It's not just complexion, but language, religion, types of food, styles of driving, degree of annoyance with foreigners and more.
I'm currently in Mysore, which is about 85 miles southeast of Bangalore. My intention was to get the train at 11a from Bang, arrive at 1p, tour for 5 hours and then get a 7p bus back to Bang. True to form, India was not having any of that. I arrived at the train station 25 minutes early with my e-ticket number, needing somewhere to print my eticket. Silly me for thinking there would be printing facilities in the IT capital of the non-Western world. After missing my express train, I resorted to the bus, which took 3 1/2 hours. Fortunately, Mysore is gorgeous and it all was worth it after wandering through the Mysore Palace that housed the Maharaja and his family. Talk about living in luxury... the gold throne on which he was carried weighed 750kg (1650 pounds). So much luxury and here I am in a hotel room without a change of clothes. A classic Indian contradiction.
After the palace, I scoped out the Brindavan Gardens, setting for many a euphoric Bollywood dance sequence. At 7p, they light up the gardens and fountains and it turns into a twinkling wonderland. That is, until the power goes out (ironically the gardens span a hydroelectricity producing dam). Here is a pic from the gardens.
Also, I had to mention a "they outsource THAT" moment I had when in Chennai. I was meeting with a local company and the woman (the head of HR) informed me that one of their business lines was pre-media. I asked for an example and she casually replied that they do all the airbrushing for the Victoria's Secret catalog. I actually burst out laughing. No wonder they checked my bag for pen drives and cameras... they don't want me to reveal what Jiselle really looks like!
I'm going to try and get some sleep before the bus ride back to Bangalore, where I'm meeting my couchsurfing host for his soccer team's practice. I don't have proper footwear, and certainly lack proper fitness, but can't wait to knock the ball around.
Recap:
Day 40/82
Distance from NY-JFK: 8319.38 miles
Current mood: satisfied with a small adventure
Current music: None... the soundtrack of whatever is playing on Indian HBO?
Only here moment: Does a 4 lane highway have speed bumps... riddle me that.
I'm currently in Mysore, which is about 85 miles southeast of Bangalore. My intention was to get the train at 11a from Bang, arrive at 1p, tour for 5 hours and then get a 7p bus back to Bang. True to form, India was not having any of that. I arrived at the train station 25 minutes early with my e-ticket number, needing somewhere to print my eticket. Silly me for thinking there would be printing facilities in the IT capital of the non-Western world. After missing my express train, I resorted to the bus, which took 3 1/2 hours. Fortunately, Mysore is gorgeous and it all was worth it after wandering through the Mysore Palace that housed the Maharaja and his family. Talk about living in luxury... the gold throne on which he was carried weighed 750kg (1650 pounds). So much luxury and here I am in a hotel room without a change of clothes. A classic Indian contradiction.
After the palace, I scoped out the Brindavan Gardens, setting for many a euphoric Bollywood dance sequence. At 7p, they light up the gardens and fountains and it turns into a twinkling wonderland. That is, until the power goes out (ironically the gardens span a hydroelectricity producing dam). Here is a pic from the gardens.
Also, I had to mention a "they outsource THAT" moment I had when in Chennai. I was meeting with a local company and the woman (the head of HR) informed me that one of their business lines was pre-media. I asked for an example and she casually replied that they do all the airbrushing for the Victoria's Secret catalog. I actually burst out laughing. No wonder they checked my bag for pen drives and cameras... they don't want me to reveal what Jiselle really looks like!
I'm going to try and get some sleep before the bus ride back to Bangalore, where I'm meeting my couchsurfing host for his soccer team's practice. I don't have proper footwear, and certainly lack proper fitness, but can't wait to knock the ball around.
Recap:
Day 40/82
Distance from NY-JFK: 8319.38 miles
Current mood: satisfied with a small adventure
Current music: None... the soundtrack of whatever is playing on Indian HBO?
Only here moment: Does a 4 lane highway have speed bumps... riddle me that.
Tuesday, July 7, 2009
Chennai in July
Greetings from Chennai, India, formerly known as Madras, as in the type of fabric that was hip in the 70s (according to my mom) and maintains its relevance amongst East Coast frat boys. I must confess that I am writing this from a distinctly unbackpacker-esque location, the Courtyard Marriott. But no, this isn't just your cookie-cutter Courtyard Marriott that eliminates the need for business travelers throughout America to remember what state they are in. This is a classy joint. You can tell by the 500 rupee bottles of Evian (that's 10.12USD) on the minibar. I showed up in a prepaid taxi, got out with my backpack and laptop bag and the bellman looked at me quizzically, to which I replied, "I travel light." He realized I was not about to tip him and did that amazing side-to-side, maybe yes-maybe-no Indian head gesture that I think needs to spread to other parts of the world (it's just SO versatile). The receptionists were kind enough to mask their disgust at my 2nd hand linen shirt that still retains a tint of green from my Cairo laundry adventure. Considering the air-conditioning hadn't been functioning in the plane in Delhi (it was 110 in the cabin according to my thermometer), it must've been tough for them. All that aside, I made it to my room, ventured out to find a non-overpriced meal and now am basking in central A/C.
I'm only in Chennai for 3 nights so I'll make this brief, but thought I should give a rundown of the past few days.
On Saturday, the 4th of July, I got up early and took the train to Agra to visit the Taj Mahal, jokingly referred to by some Indians as "Man's greatest erection for a woman." It was indeed stunning. The symmetry is unbelievable and, like the Pyramids, you can just imagine how it must've looked when it was completed centuries ago. Though I haven't seen Slumdog Millionaire yet (I know, I know... save the abuse), I was instructed to take this picture.
While the Taj is the main draw, Agra does have some other beautiful sights. Agra Fort is a HUGE structure down the river from the Taj in which the Indian Army still has garrisons. There is also the Baby Taj (official name is Itimad-Ud-Daulah), which I found really amazing, possibly because there were no crowds. Here is a picture of the Baby Taj, which predated the actual Taj by about 20 years.
Besides the sites, Agra is actually a pretty awful place. The roads are crowded, there is a marked lack of urban planning and much of the city derives its income from ripping of tourists. Perhaps I'm too quick to judge, but I was happy to get back to Delhi.
On Sunday, I met up with some fellow Princetonians for coffee and then we watched the Wimbledon final... unbelievable if you didn't see it. I then went with the son of my host family to one of his friend's homes where I encountered a scene so familiar it was eerie... a group of 20 somethings sitting around, watching South Park and playing drinking games. While IT may have flattened the world substantially, we cannot discount the impact of students who attend foreign universities, only to return and disseminate cultural relics such as "quarters" and "Kings". Perhaps Tom Friedman could focus an article on this phenomenon also?
Besides a few bouts with Delhi belly, I truly enjoyed my time in India's capital. Things just seemed to "work" more than they did in Mumbai.
For now, goodnight, and I'll try and be more diligent about my updates.
Day 36/82
Distance from NY-JFK: 8371 miles
Current mood: thoughtful
Current music: Usher's performance at the Michael Jackson memorial which is on CNN...
Only here moment: Hard to judge from my sanitized bubble, but in Delhi airport earlier today I had free highspeed wifi while looking out at slums only a few hundred meters away. India certainly has a long way to achieve its goal of "inclusive growth".
I'm only in Chennai for 3 nights so I'll make this brief, but thought I should give a rundown of the past few days.
On Saturday, the 4th of July, I got up early and took the train to Agra to visit the Taj Mahal, jokingly referred to by some Indians as "Man's greatest erection for a woman." It was indeed stunning. The symmetry is unbelievable and, like the Pyramids, you can just imagine how it must've looked when it was completed centuries ago. Though I haven't seen Slumdog Millionaire yet (I know, I know... save the abuse), I was instructed to take this picture.
While the Taj is the main draw, Agra does have some other beautiful sights. Agra Fort is a HUGE structure down the river from the Taj in which the Indian Army still has garrisons. There is also the Baby Taj (official name is Itimad-Ud-Daulah), which I found really amazing, possibly because there were no crowds. Here is a picture of the Baby Taj, which predated the actual Taj by about 20 years.
Besides the sites, Agra is actually a pretty awful place. The roads are crowded, there is a marked lack of urban planning and much of the city derives its income from ripping of tourists. Perhaps I'm too quick to judge, but I was happy to get back to Delhi.
On Sunday, I met up with some fellow Princetonians for coffee and then we watched the Wimbledon final... unbelievable if you didn't see it. I then went with the son of my host family to one of his friend's homes where I encountered a scene so familiar it was eerie... a group of 20 somethings sitting around, watching South Park and playing drinking games. While IT may have flattened the world substantially, we cannot discount the impact of students who attend foreign universities, only to return and disseminate cultural relics such as "quarters" and "Kings". Perhaps Tom Friedman could focus an article on this phenomenon also?
Besides a few bouts with Delhi belly, I truly enjoyed my time in India's capital. Things just seemed to "work" more than they did in Mumbai.
For now, goodnight, and I'll try and be more diligent about my updates.
Day 36/82
Distance from NY-JFK: 8371 miles
Current mood: thoughtful
Current music: Usher's performance at the Michael Jackson memorial which is on CNN...
Only here moment: Hard to judge from my sanitized bubble, but in Delhi airport earlier today I had free highspeed wifi while looking out at slums only a few hundred meters away. India certainly has a long way to achieve its goal of "inclusive growth".
Thursday, July 2, 2009
One Month Recap
I'm in New Delhi at the moment, staying with a a lovely family in Vasant Vihar (if you're familiar with Delhi... otherwise, it's a nice suburb about 6km from the city center). Delhi is a completely different kind of city from Mumbai. The roads are better, there is lots of green space and other nice features that come along with a nation's capital. They even have a large road that runs from the Prime Minister's office to the India Gate that reminds me of the Mall in Washington, D.C. That said, there is still amazing amounts of poverty that just breaks your heart. And at the most basic level, you can have improved infrastructure, but the chaos takes a lot longer to dissipate. As my host said, if there was just a little bit more order, people would be terribly confused because they are so accustomed to what I view as chaos.
I'm getting quite tired so I'll make this a short post, but I just wanted to recap a few highlights of the trip thus far.
High Point: Probably sunrise over Budapest, but the felucca cruise on the Nile was amazing also.
Low Point: The first night alone in Prague... when it hit me that I was really by myself. Listening to "Hey There Delilah" while eating dinner alone in an empty restaurant was rough.
Best meal: Toss up between dinner with Will in Egypt and the meal I had tonight here in Delhi. Both were authentic food that you just can't get anywhere else. We'll see if eating Indian fish comes back to haunt me...
Worst meal: The food on Egypt Air from Budapest to Cairo... disgusting.
Clothes I've lost: A pair of shorts and two pairs of underwear... don't ask me how because there is no exciting back story.
Clothes I've gained: Two pairs of Egyptian underwear, a second hand linen shirt which I tinted green by washing with my sheet, a blue polo shirt from the Hungarian answer to H&M, and a polo shirt from Leopolds, the bar in Mumbai.
Worst rip off: Definitely the infamous cologne
Best deal: 5 hours in a taxi (1 1/2 hours each way plus a two hour wait) for 16USD. That included a nice tip.
Most valuable lesson: Always carry small bills... best accomplished by spending your large bills at restaurants and getting change.
Unnecessary item thus far: My inflatable clothes hanger.
Number of days since I've drunk tap water: 18... and that means 18 days since crisp salad.
Thing I took most for granted at home: The ability to exercise whenever I wanted.
Biggest reminder of home: The smell of a Bounce sheet on my last shirt that I washed at Will's embassy apartment.
That's all I can think of for now... if you have suggestions for other things to recap... leave a comment.
I'm getting quite tired so I'll make this a short post, but I just wanted to recap a few highlights of the trip thus far.
High Point: Probably sunrise over Budapest, but the felucca cruise on the Nile was amazing also.
Low Point: The first night alone in Prague... when it hit me that I was really by myself. Listening to "Hey There Delilah" while eating dinner alone in an empty restaurant was rough.
Best meal: Toss up between dinner with Will in Egypt and the meal I had tonight here in Delhi. Both were authentic food that you just can't get anywhere else. We'll see if eating Indian fish comes back to haunt me...
Worst meal: The food on Egypt Air from Budapest to Cairo... disgusting.
Clothes I've lost: A pair of shorts and two pairs of underwear... don't ask me how because there is no exciting back story.
Clothes I've gained: Two pairs of Egyptian underwear, a second hand linen shirt which I tinted green by washing with my sheet, a blue polo shirt from the Hungarian answer to H&M, and a polo shirt from Leopolds, the bar in Mumbai.
Worst rip off: Definitely the infamous cologne
Best deal: 5 hours in a taxi (1 1/2 hours each way plus a two hour wait) for 16USD. That included a nice tip.
Most valuable lesson: Always carry small bills... best accomplished by spending your large bills at restaurants and getting change.
Unnecessary item thus far: My inflatable clothes hanger.
Number of days since I've drunk tap water: 18... and that means 18 days since crisp salad.
Thing I took most for granted at home: The ability to exercise whenever I wanted.
Biggest reminder of home: The smell of a Bounce sheet on my last shirt that I washed at Will's embassy apartment.
That's all I can think of for now... if you have suggestions for other things to recap... leave a comment.
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